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BEAUTY CARE

SheaMoisture launches hair and skin products

BY DSN STAFF

SheaMoisture Silicone Free Miracle Styler Leave-In Treatment is designed for all hair types. The new product detangles, moisturizes, reduces drying time, fights frizz and protects against environmental damage. The blend of sugar cane, meadowfoam seed oil, marshmallow root and botanicals makes this high-slip formula great for tangle-free, manageability and hair health, the company said. The product is made without silicones because, although they are effective for helping to smooth and straighten hair, thicker silicones found in leave-in treatments, serums and detanglers can over time build up along the cuticle, leaving hair feeling heavy and greasy, the company said. SheaMoisture Silicone Free Miracle Styler Leave-In Treatment contains no mineral oil, no parabens, no phthalates, no propylene glycol, no sulfates, and does no animal testing.

Also new, SheaMoisture 100% Virgin Coconut Oil Daily Hydration Micellar Water and Daily Glow Priming Moisturizer are designed for daily use and all skin types. The lightweight formulations contain a blend of 100% virgin coconut oil and shea oil, creamy coconut milk and acacia senegal to hydrate and soften the skin. The rinse-free micellar water cleanses and restores skin, while gently removing dirt, oil and makeup. The coconut oil, coconut milk and coconut water work to clear skin of impurities without clogging pores or leaving a greasy residue.

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Millennials influence skin care trends

BY Seth Mendelson

It’s not your mother’s skin care aisle.

Today’s skin care segment is decisively ingredient-driven — but not with the typical substances that have propelled the category for the past 50 years. Formulas now contain such superfood ingredients as matcha, turmeric and kale, as well as such natural additions as charcoal, honey and mint to deliver efficacious results.

The simple fact about skin care? It’s undoubtedly benefiting — and being influenced — by the booming wellness and lifestyle phenomenon led by millennials. Natural continues to be on the rise as consumers become more knowledgeable and discerning about what they put on their skin.

“These ingredients, as well as new forms of delivery and applications, are what’s keeping the category interesting,” said Conny Wittke, CEO of nügg Beauty. “Multifunctional products and easy-to-use products that provide benefits faster and easier also keep rising in popularity, as do products that are multifunctional in the sense of helping consumers with topics, such as stress and antipollution.”

What does that mean for retailers trying to make their mark with this increasingly important category. The first takeaway is that millennials are behind many of the biggest trends surfacing in beauty. In mass skin care, these trends include face masks, single-use products and sticks.

“Face masks are now part of a millennial’s basic skin care regimen, so I’m seeing a variety of new mask forms, textures, benefits, ingredients and number of steps,” said Ingrid Jackel, CEO of Yes To. “Single-use products are also in high demand as they meet the needs of millennials who experience a variety of skin care problems on a day-to-day basis. And, they allow for flexibility and customization with less commitment than full-size skin care products. Finally, sticks are the newest form for skin care products due to their ease of application and their ease on-the-go, which meet the lifestyle needs of the millennial consumer.”

Burt’s Bees’ vice president and general manager, Matt Gregory, concurs, especially on the naturals front. “The natural beauty and personal care space continues to grow rapidly, at roughly twice the rate of conventional personal care,” he said.” As the demand for natural products grows, there’s an increased interest in individual ingredients within a formula, such as with naturally humectant honey.

“On the other hand, there is an increased focus on what’s not included, through ‘absence of’ or ‘free from’ claims. Finally, we’re also seeing the continual merge of the color and skin care worlds through multipurpose beauty products — items with an ability to nourish the skin, while also making the consumer look and feel beautiful. In fact, moisturizing ranks as a top benefit being sought after in makeup, according to a Mintel study.”

Hence, mass beauty sales are growing — according to Nielsen scanner data through March 24 — by about 5% gain in skin care. Categories that have typically been sleepy, such as acne, grew more than 40% in 2017, according to Kline. This is due, Kline officials said, to millennials’ desire for such DIY items as Neutrogena’s $34.99 Light Therapy Acne Mask and $19.99 Light Therapy Acne Spot Treatment.

“Filling a white space on the mass mask market, coupled with Neutrogena’s marketing prowess, the brand reaped an estimated 30% of acne device sales in 2017, which no other brand in the acne category has ever been able to garner,” said Kelly Alexandre, senior analyst and the research lead in a recent report released by Kline.

Other acne innovations are being seen from one the hottest segments within skin care: masks. Yes To Tomatoes Detoxifying Charcoal Sleeping Mask was one of the most buzzed-about masks in 2017, thanks to its lightweight cream texture, suitable for acne-prone skin. Beginning in April, the brand launched a single-use, peel-off version, as well as a SKU for brightening, Yes To Grapefruit Single Use Vitamin C Glow-Boosting Peel-Off Mask, in Walmart.

Jackel said the growth in natural is continuing to outpace the growth of mainstream by over 40%, based on the latest 12-week IRI data ending March 25. “I would expect this trend to continue given the growing desire for good-for-you beauty products, particularly among millennial consumers,” she said.

Proving that peel-off masks are the trend to watch in 2018, in April nügg launched several single-use, peel-off masks, including a Charcoal & Vitamin C Peel Off Face Mask for deep cleansing and a Tea Tree & Sea Silt Peel Off Face Mask to refresh and tone.

Earlier this fiscal year, Burt’s Bees launched a first-of-its-kind natural beauty collection at mass, which combined skin care expertise with professional makeup artist guidance to deliver high-performance beauty powered by natural ingredients.

“The beauty range is designed not only to make her look and feel beautiful, but to do so with ingredients that nourish and hydrate the skin. And, the line is made without parabens, phthalates, petrolatum, silicones, talc or synthetic fragrances,” Gregory said.

Overall, Wittke said, mass skin care is becoming better and better, both in setting trends and in following prestige trends. “Indeed, they’re becoming so good that I think we should stop separating between ‘mass’ and ‘prestige’ in describing brands in each space,” he said. “Consumers are getting fantastic value for their money from brands and retailers operating in the space; they are understanding that more and more.”

Experience crucial to success
Creating new and innovative delivery systems to enhance the consumer experience goes hand-in-hand with unique ingredient and benefits stories.

Beiersdorf is using tech to reach consumers with its Eucerin brand. In late 2017, the brand launched a skill through the Amazon Echo’s digital assistant Alexa that’s designed to help users find their ideal skin solution. The skill is full of informative tips and product recommendations for Eucerin’s full product offering, including face, body, hand and cleansing lines.

On the experiential side, Rocio Rivera, assistant vice president of scientific communications at L’Oréal Paris, said that while consumers are still interested in claims, such as speed of results, there’s a growing desire for sensory experiences.

“Masks and cleansers are performing well in the category, driven by innovative sensorial formats and distinctive product experiences — everything from unique texture to product packaging,” Rivera said, noting that vitamin C, hyaluronic acid and retinol are the high-trending ingredients she’s seeing. “These coincide with what top dermatologists recommend and have long stood behind.”

L’Oréal Paris is capitalizing on these trends in several ways. For example, cleansing is a top-growing category, with consumers using more cleansing products than ever before. Recently, the brand launched Pure-Sugar Scrubs, which are formulated with naturally derived sugars to not only effectively cleanse skin, but also provide a great sensorial experience.

Stephanie Robertson, Olay brand director at Cincinnati-based Procter & Gamble, agreed that ingredients are having a moment. Now, more than ever, women are honing in on power ingredients. The hot, powerful ingredient of the moment is B3/niacinamide, she said.

“Niacinamide isn’t new,” Robertson said, adding that just about any brand can put niacinamide into their formulas. But it’s different to optimize the delivery to the skin, as well as the activity in the skin — something her company is working to optimize.

“P&G has over 100 patents granted around the use of and formulation of niacinamide,” she said. “Olay began using it 18 years ago with the launch of Total Effects, and it’s been a go-to ingredient for our brand ever since. Most recently, we have included the ingredient in the new Olay Whips collection.”

Olay’s Whips, which do include B3/niacinamide, are formulated with the company’s Active Rush Technology, which Robertson said is meant to hold and quickly release 1,000 times its weight in hydration and active ingredients. Whips transform from cream to liquid on contact, flash absorbing into the skin. They are available with and without SPF under the Regenerist, Total Effects and Luminous sub-brands.

The enhanced consumer experience behind Olay’s Whips also debunks the common misconception that in order for a skincare product to deliver powerful results, it must be heavy.

“There has been a direct rise of foams, whips, cloud creams — you name it. The launch of Olay Whips has been a turning point for the brand, and women, as there is now a skin cream that finally offers great results with a light, matte finish,” Robertson said.

Mass dermatology
Dermatologist-backed lines have experienced a resurgence, largely propelled by the wellness trend and boosted by consumers’ expectations that formulas meet specific concerns.

“Over the last few years, there’s been increased interest and request for skin care products that offer relief for specific skin concerns, such as extremely dry skin, or conditions, such as eczema and psoriasis. It’s no surprise given that according to the American Academy of Dermatology, today skin conditions affect 1-in-4 Americans,” said Diana Jagannath, brand manager of Dove DermaSeries — the Unilever brand’s first dermatology inspired line.

The collection marks the brand’s first fragrance-free and hypoallergenic skin care regimen designed to provide instant relief and lasting comfort for those with extremely dry skin, Jagannath said. The line includes a body wash, body lotion, hand cream, face wash, face cream and eczema relief body lotion, and uses such specific ingredients as colloidal oatmeal in its Eczema Relief Soothing Body Lotion and PPAR’s — a protein found in skin — in moisturizers to address specific skin concerns.

“We’ve also formulated our products so they are more enjoyable to use, with beautiful textures instead of the more frequently found heavy, leave-behind residues that don’t fully absorb,” Jagannath said. “We don’t want people to have to choose between beauty and therapeutic offerings today.”

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Multicultural products enter the mainstream

BY Nora Caley

Stocking an “ethnic” set apart from the rest of the aisle is no longer the name of the game.

As retailers and suppliers realize the benefits of carrying products made to meet the needs of an increasing number of black consumers who don’t want to relax or straighten their hair chemically — as well as shoppers of all backgrounds with curly and textured hair — the category is growing, both in terms of sales and its presence in the beauty aisle.

The result: As consumer demands merge more retailers — dare we say most — are combining their multicultural offerings with traditional brands to create a single spot for all hair care needs.

Mintel has reported that black women spent an estimated $1.66 billion on beauty products, including cosmetics, nail care and facial skin care/antiaging categories in 2017. Hair care represents an especially fruitful category, with the natural hair movement driving sales of shampoo — which saw a 13% increase in shopper dollars between 2015 and 2017, the most growth of any hair care segment during that time period. Mintel projected that shampoo sales in 2017 would increase 7.3% to roughly $473 million, with conditioner sales going up 3% to roughly $491 million.

“The multicultural consumer is the fastest-growing consumer in the market,” said Osman Mithavayani, vice president at Miami Gardens, Fla.-based Xtreme Beauty International, which makes OKAY Pure Naturals brand hair care and skin care products. “Our products can be used for all hair and skin types, which cover the multicultural spectrum.”

A key factor driving the growth of beauty products for various hair textures is that the items have a broader appeal than just among black consumers. According to Kline, a market research and management consulting firm, the multicultural hair care products category has been defined less by the ethnicity of the consumer and more by what the products are designed for, such as products designed for curly hair. “Consumers are not rejecting mainstream products for ethnic alternatives, but instead pulling multicultural products into the mainstream,” the firm wrote in its 2016 report on ethnic hair care products.

The move of these products from the “ethnic” set to the broader hair and personal care set has been something several brands have strongly supported. Sundial Brands’ SheaMoisture launched a 2016 campaign that encouraged consumers to #BreakTheWalls between the “ethnic” aisle and the beauty aisle.

Another company taking this approach is Sashapure, a Red Lodge Beauty brand, whose focus is on delivering results for a certain hair type rather than ethnicity. “Some say multicultural, but we prefer multi-textural,” said founder Jim Travagline. “It should be about textures, and hair damage, and is it straight or is it curly.” As the brand’s advertising focuses on curls, Travagline said the products should be merchandised in the dry/damaged hair section.

Besides its multi-textural approach, Sashapure also has a unique ingredient. The products — which include Healing shampoo and conditioner, as well as Perfectly Defining Curl Cream, among others — contain sacha inchi oil. The company said it is a 3,000-year-old superfood from Peru that is USDA-certified organic and sustainably harvested. Sacha inchi oil is rich in protein, omegas-3, 6 and 9 and vitamins E and A, and is a light oil that can absorb quickly and keep all textures of hair soft, shiny, hydrated, well-nourished and resilient. Travagline said it was difficult to come up with the formula, partly because oil and water do not mix, and also because he had to travel to the Amazon rainforest to meet farmers and to look for the right ingredient.

“It took four and half years,” he said. “I didn’t want to do argan oil, or coconut, or shea butter. I wanted something fresh and new. Innovation sparks new customers and new ways of thinking.”

Xtreme Beauty International’s Mithavayani said consumers want to see themselves and their various hair types acknowledged in the hair care products they purchase and use. They respond to eye catching packaging that resonates with them, and they want products that work. OKAY products can be used for all hair and skin types. “Our shampoos are uniquely formulated so that they can be used on fine hair, as well as coarse thick hair and everything in between,” he said, adding that the company manufactures the products in Miami, so it can maintain control over the quality of the ingredients.

The newest line from OKAY is the Black Jamaican Castor Oil Coconut Curls Collection, with shampoo, conditioner and leave-in conditioner. There also are new moisture and curling sorbets. The company formulated these new collections specifically for curly hair care, and the products work to moisturize, hydrate and style.

Natural ingredients also are contributing to the growth in multicultural product sales. Consumers have become more aware of the benefits of certain ingredients, and also of how the ingredients affect the quality and performance of products, said Courtney Adeleye, founder and CEO of Huntsville, Ala.-based The Mane Choice. “Across all hair care categories, natural-based products that deliver on performance promises have shown to be leaders and drivers of general market and the multicultural beauty industry.”

Adeleye added that consumers also are looking for shampoos, conditioners, stylers and oils that improve the overall integrity of the hair. “Not only do our consumers crave fresh, new products, they also love products that cater specifically to their own needs,” she said. “People love exclusivity.”

Many manufacturers said that innovations are key to expanding the category. “The needs of the consumers are heavily evolving, partially due to the fact that more and better options are becoming available,” Adeleye said. “Brands that capitalize on this and deliver on what consumers want are helping drive this growth trend.”

Another trend that can help retailers boost sales in the category is that consumers are looking for complete regimen care within a brand and are moving away from single-item purchases. The Mane Choice recently launched the Tropical Moringa Sweet Oil and Honey Endless Moisture Collection. Adeleye said the line is an expansion of what was formerly known as the Tropical Moringa Duo, with an enhanced formula. The products are designed for curly, wavy and kinky hair, and include shampoo, conditioner, mask, restorative spray and sealing cream. There also is a new men’s collection and a collection for highly textured hair.

Consumers are choosing products that are not only more healthful, but that make hair care an easier process. That means complete sets of shampoo, condition, deep treatment, styling solution and other products. “It takes a lot of thinking out of the purchase,” said Christian Maxwell, brand manager of Crown Point, Ind.-based Mielle Organics. “Stores are very receptive to collection initiatives. I have seen across the board a wide variety of brands are creating multiple product collections.”

The newest collection from Mielle Organics is the Pomegranate and Honey collection, with Curl Smoothie, Twisting Souffle and Leave-In Conditioner. The three styling solutions are designed for women who want to style their natural hair.

As products with natural ingredients that can help care for curls rises, chemical relaxers and products that permanently straighten hair are on the decline, because chemicals that get through the pores in the scalp can affect the body, Maxwell said. “Consumers are more educated than they once were about the importance of hair care for overall health. The is key is not to put certain chemicals in your hair.”

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