BEAUTY CARE

Vidal Sassoon launches Answers hair styling line

BY Antoinette Alexander

EL PASO, Texas Vidal Sassoon is supporting the launch of its Vidal Sassoon Answers hair styling line with a national advertising campaign on top television fashion shows, online and via sponsorship of a made-for-television movie about fashion icon, Coco Chanel.

“We are breaking new ground with the Vidal Sassoon Answers line, we wanted to do a major ad campaign that is innovative as well,” stated Jeff Willard, vice president of marketing at Helen of Troy. “We will be able to show millions that there is an answer to their styling problems, and it’s using the right tools for their specific hair type.”

Vidal Sassoon Answers is being marketed as the first line of styling tools designed specifically for different hair types: fine, normal and coarse. The line includes dryers, straighteners, curling irons and brushes. They are color-coded: purple for coarse hair, blue for normal hair and orange for fine hair.

Featuring the “Your Hair Knows” tagline, the Vidal Sassoon Answers TV ads bring to life the problem of using the wrong styling tools. As the ad unfolds, the hair “comes to life” to reject the wrong styling tools and embrace the new Answers line. Doner, an independently owned advertising agency, created the campaign.

As part of the campaign, Vidal Sassoon Answers will be the exclusive hair care sponsor of Lifetime’s movie “Coco Chanel,” starring Shirley MacLaine. The move premieres Sept. 13.

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Anti-age products prop up sagging skin care sales

BY Antoinette Alexander

The U.S. skin care market is poised for continued growth, but not across the board. In fact, several segments are expected to decline over the next several years, according to data from Euromonitor International. Interestingly, all except anti-age, as baby boomers continue their quest to banish fine lines and wrinkles, and younger consumers take proactive steps to prevent them. A desire for more products with organic or natural ingredients also is expected to fuel category growth.

“Demand for anti-aging products will remain high, as the oldest of the baby boomers turned 65 in 2006. As more of the baby boomer population enter the 40- to 55-year-old demographic group, they will continue to drive demand for expensive anti-wrinkle remedies and other age-concealing products,” stated research firm Euromonitor International in its most recent U.S. Skin Care report. “Younger consumers also will drive sales of nourishers/anti-agers, as manufacturers design products and marketing campaigns to reach this group, who are concerned with preventive care.”

The research firm predicted that retail sales of skin care in the United States will experience minimal growth between 2007 and 2012, growing by 1 percent at current prices, to reach $8.1 billion not accounting for inflation and other factors. Some factors likely to hamper growth include an anticipated decline in sales of some products, overall maturity of the sector and fewer dramatic new products. However, anti-aging products will be the most dynamic in value terms.

Sales forecast: Skin care 2012
Aging boomers will continue to seek youth in a bottle

*In U.S. millionsSource: Euromonitor International estimates
  2007 2012
Facial care $6,109.00 $6,404.20
Nourishers/anti-agers 2,239.50 2,714.40
facial moisturizers 1,641.20 1,541.30
Facial cleansers 1,519.30 1,463.00
Toners 335.30 284.80
Lip moisturizers 305.40 341.40
Face masks 68.20 59.30
Body care 1,833.80 1,586.90
Firming/anti-cellulite 93.10 74.40
General purpose body care 1,740.70 1,512.50
Hand care 116.40 112.90
Mass hand care 88.20 84.70
Premium hand care 28.20 28.20
Total skin care 8,059.20 8,104.00

Anti-aging products are expected to grow 21 percent between 2007 and 2012, to a total of about $2.7 billion not accounting for inflation and other factors.

The continued demand to anti-aging skin care has benefited cosmeceuticals—skin care products that accentuate the presence of active ingredients in product formulations—and research suggested that won’t change anytime soon.

A study recently released by industry market research firm The Freedonia Group predicted that the demand for cosmetic and toiletry chemicals in the United States will rise 5.8 percent per year to $8.8 billion in 2012.

The Cosmetic & Toiletry Chemicals report stated that growth in demand for active ingredients, such as enzymes, amino acids and peptides, will be propelled by continued gains in cosmeceutical skin care products and such additives as nanoscale ingredients.

Also fueling demand will be an increase in a consumer preference for products that have natural or organic ingredients. This trend in consumer preference will come at the expense of traditional cosmetic and toiletry chemicals like petroleum oils and commodity surfactants, which likely will experience limited gains because of the popularity of water-based formulations in skin and hair care products, the increased use of natural ingredients and a trend away from chemicals that have the perception of being harsh, according to The Freedonia Group.

Male grooming and ethnic products also are poised for growth, the research firm noted.

Looking to tap into the lucrative skin care market, manufacturers—both niche players and large companies—continue to develop products that promise to deliver results.

One such company, which was an exhibitor at this year’s NACDS Marketplace Conference in San Diego, is DermWorx. Among the products it highlighted at the show was its CerumWorx anti-aging serum.

CerumWorx is a patented formula utilizing L-ascorbic acid, the pure form of vitaminC. The oil-free serum promises to re-energize skin, making it look firmer and smoother.

Promising to deliver visibly fewer wrinkles in 28 days is Sebamed from Sebapharma. The line, also seen at NACDS Marketplace, includes anti-aging Q10 protection cream, Q10 lifting eye cream, Q10 firming body lotion, face and body wash and shower oil.

Also at NACDS Marketplace was Equilibra Italy with its new Perlabella anti-aging skin care products. The formulas are packaged in capsules, or PureDose Pearls, so water, air or preservatives will not compromise the integrity of their ingredients.

Meanwhile, L’Oréal Paris is making available in August the new Advanced Revitalift Anti-Wrinkle Concentrate clinical action serum and Age Perfect Pro-Calcium Radiance Perfector sheer tint moisturizer treatment.

The Advanced Revitalift Anti-Wrinkle Concentrate is the most concentrated product in the Advanced Revitalift collection and features ingredients Pro-Retinol A and Pro-Lastyl.

The Age Perfect Pro-Calcium Radiance Perfector sheer tint moisturizer is an all-in-one radiance treatment that incorporates anti-aging ingredients in a sheer-tinted moisturizer. For women who suffer from skin discoloration and age spots, the moisturizer has pure vitamin C, beta hydroxy acid and calcium technology.

Procter & Gamble’s Olay recently launched several products for 2008, including the new Olay Definity Night restorative sleep cream, Olay Definity Night anti-spot treatment and Definity Color Recapture.

The Olay Definity Night restorative sleep cream contains ingredients that penetrate up to 10 surface layers of skin, hydrating to noticeably reduce the look of discoloration, dullness, brown spots and wrinkles with eight weeks of use, according to P&G. The cream contains the new concentrated glucosamine formula that is comprised of niacinamide, N-acetyl glucosamine and glycerin.

The new Olay Definity Night anti-spot treatment targets brown spots and discolorations while one sleeps. Also infused with a glucosamine complex, the treatment promises to fade the appearance of age spots and help match skin’s natural tone in six weeks.

To moisturize skin and provide sheer illuminating coverage, there’s the new Definity Color Recapture. The daily anti-age moisturizer works in multiple surface layers to help reverse the appearance of discoloration and wrinkles. It is available in three shades: fair/light, light/medium and medium/deep. The product offers SPF 15 protection and also is infused with a glucosamine complex.

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The ‘demetrosexualization’ of men’s grooming

BY Alaric DeArment

Not long ago, metrosexual was the “in” thing, its image defined by such celebrities as actor George Clooney, soccer player David Beckham and the rock band The Killers. Personal care for men went beyond the usual showering, shaving and deodorant and branched into skin care and color coordination, withering taboos that forbade men from using such products. The personal care industry followed suit.

It didn’t take long for a backlash to form, though. An opposite extreme called “retrosexual” emerged—in other words, Homer Simpson chic. But the expanded market for men’s personal care products has not disappeared and probably won’t, according to a report released in May by Euromonitor International.

“The growth in men’s spending on beauty trends is not a fad, but a definite sustainable trend,” the report stated. “The social taboos around men’s grooming continue to break down, and more men will be willing to spend on skin care products that are targeted specifically at them, creating very strong opportunities for mass products.”

Euromonitor’s research appeared consistent with the activities of a number of companies, including Nivea, which recently expanded the Nivea for Men.

“Our target is the man who wants to look and feel good on the inside and out, while still retaining all the qualities that come with being a man,” said Joe Venezia, marketing director for the product line. “We specifically designed products that are easy-to-use and effective, while being masculine.”

Nivea’s history with men’s grooming has deep roots. In 1922, it began marketing its first shaving soap. In the early 1990s, it became one of the first companies to capitalize on what would later become known as the metrosexual market.

But while metrosexual products often have been almost indistinguishable from their counterparts for women, Nivea for Men products offer a more toned-down approach.

“We focus on a very specific target group to provide products for men who don’t want to spend too much time on grooming, but want to still look good,” Venezia said, adding that Nivea first launched the line to provide an effective lotion with a more masculine scent.

Unilever has sought to enter the market, as well, with its Vaseline Men line of products. The products, which include lotions for the hands, face and body and a version of Lever 2000 soap with Vaseline, emphasize skin care while also playing down appeals to metrosexual consumers, noting that 17 percent of men regularly moisturize their bodies, compared with 51 percent of women.

If Nivea and Vaseline have toned down the metrosexual aspect of their products, Dial has gone to the opposite extreme with Dial for Men.

Dial makes it clear that it isn’t after metrosexual dollars with the product’s Web site, which opens with a wood-paneling background, a cartoon of a heavyset, hairy man and the trademarked slogan, “Maintenance for Your Mansuit.” In its “Official Unofficial Rulebook of Man,” the site advised: “No man smells pretty. Never tell him that,” “Hand towels never have to coordinate with anything,” and “If you can’t pick it up and eat it, it can’t be your favorite food.” Meanwhile, the TV ad shows all the symbols of American masculinity: football players, loggers, bowling and arm wrestling.

“The ‘manly man’ area was a definite white space when Dial for Men launched,” said Laura Skibba, senior product manager for Dial Body Wash. “And just because you are a manly man doesn’t mean you still don’t want to look and smell good.”

According to an August 2007 report published by the Institute for the Study of American Popular Culture, ABC’s “Good Morning America” proclaimed the demise of the metrosexual as a segment in 2006. Still, reports of the metrosexual fad’s demise appear at least somewhat exaggerated, at least in other countries.

Superdrug, one of the United Kingdom’s largest health and beauty retailers, announced that on Aug. 6, it would begin marketing a line of makeup for men under Taxi Cosmetics’ brand that includes male versions of eyeliner and mascara.

“We’ve developed essentials that a guy would perhaps normally borrow from his other half,” Taxi’s Peter Kelly said in a statement. “It’s about subtle makeup rather than wanting to create the drag queen look.”

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