BEAUTY CARE

Personal Care Products Council responds to proposed Safe Cosmetics Act of 2010

BY Antoinette Alexander

WASHINGTON While there is a need to modernize the regulatory structure of the cosmetics industry, the newly proposed Safe Cosmetics Act of 2010 as written "is not based on credible and established scientific principles" and would place an "enormous, if not impossible, burden on the Food and Drug Administration," the Personal Care Products Council stated in response to the legislation introduced on Wednesday.

As reported by Drug Store News, Reps. Jan Schakowsky, D-Ill.; Ed Markey, D-Mass.; and Tammy Baldwin, D-Wis., introduced the Safe Cosmetics Act of 2010 (H.R. 5786) on Wednesday. The new bill in Congress would, if passed, reform law on ingredients in personal care products. Provisions of the proposed legislation include, but are not limited to, providing adequate funding to the FDA Office of Cosmetics and Colors to provide greater oversight over the cosmetics industry, creating a health-based safety standard and requiring full disclosure of ingredients, including the constituent ingredients of fragrances.

Responding to the legislation, Lezlee Westine, president and CEO of the Personal Care Products Council, issued the following statement: "We appreciate the interest of Reps. Schakowsky, Markey and Baldwin in cosmetic regulation, and we share their desire to ensure that existing FDA regulatory oversight is enhanced to take into account evolving science, the continued growth of our industry and the need to modernize the regulatory structure. Toward that end, our industry has lobbied for the last several years to obtain additional funding for FDA’s Office of Cosmetics and Colors. We also just last week proposed a number of new measures, including FDA ingredient reviews, that we believe would enhance FDA oversight and give the agency the information and flexibility it needs to continue to ensure consumer safety and safeguard public health," Westine said.

She added, "We are concerned that the Safe Cosmetics Act of 2010 as written is not based on credible and established scientific principles, [and] would put an enormous, if not impossible, burden on [the] FDA, and would create a mammoth new regulatory structure for cosmetics, parts of which would far exceed that of any other FDA-regulated product category, including food or drugs. The measures the bill would mandate are likely unachievable, even with the addition of hundreds of additional FDA scientists and millions more in funding, and would not make a meaningful contribution to product safety," Westine contined.

"We urge Congress to carefully consider our recently announced proposals to strengthen FDA cosmetics oversight, including FDA ingredient reviews, and encourage the passage of the FDA Globalization Act of 2009, sponsored by Rep. John Dingell, which also includes enhanced FDA regulations of cosmetics manufacturers. Our proposals and Rep. Dingell’s legislation constitute the strongest, most efficient and viable approach to modernizing the FDA regulation of cosmetics, increasing transparency and enhancing existing consumer safeguards as science and technology evolve," Westine added.

"Our plan includes the following five elements:

(1) Enhanced FDA registration. It requires that personal care products manufacturers that market their products in the United States [to] comply with the following:

  • Register with [the] FDA all facilities where those products are manufactured;
  • File with [the] FDA product ingredient reports disclosing all of the ingredients used in those products; and
  • Report to [the] FDA any serious, unexpected adverse event with a personal care product experienced by consumers.

(2) New process to set safety levels for trace constituents. When requested or on its own initiative, [the] FDA would be required to establish safe levels for trace constituents in cosmetic ingredients and products.   (3) New FDA ingredient review process. Once a request has been made, or [the] FDA unilaterally determines action is warranted, the agency would be required to review the safety of any ingredient intended for use in a personal care product and set safety use levels for such ingredient on a specified timetable.   (4) New FDA oversight of CIR findings. [The] FDA would be required to review current and future findings on the safety of cosmetic ingredients by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review expert panel and determine if these findings are correct. If there are instances in which it determines a CIR finding is not correct, [the] FDA would determine by guidance or regulations if, or under what conditions, the ingredient can be used safely in personal care products.   (5) FDA-issued Good Manufacturing Practices. [The] FDA would establish industry-wide ‘Good Manufacturing Practices’ requirements."

"Strong federal safety requirements already govern cosmetics and personal care products sold in the United States," Westine concluded. "The safety of cosmetic and personal care products in the United States is overseen by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration under the Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act, which requires that all cosmetics be substantiated for safety before they are marketed [and] contain no prohibited ingredients, and that all labeling and packaging must be in compliance with U.S. regulations. Under the FD&C Act it is a crime to market an unsafe cosmetic product. Our proposed measures would further enhance the effectiveness of the FDA cosmetic regulatory structure."

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Coty inks deal with Roberto Cavalli

BY Antoinette Alexander

NEW YORK Coty Inc. has signed a licensing agreement with Italian fashion brand Roberto Cavalli Group to create, develop and distribute Roberto Cavalli and Just Cavalli fragrances.

The agreement will start July 2011, when the existing fragrance license agreement for Roberto Cavalli and Just Cavalli expires. The new agreement with Coty, which will manage the license out of its Coty Prestige division, also will allow for the development of Roberto Cavalli and Just Cavalli fragrances internationally. Financial terms of the agreement were not disclosed.

The first launch of the new fragrances under the new license is expected to be in spring 2012.

“With his colorful and elite sense of style, Roberto Cavalli brings an undeniably unique signature to fashion. He has impressively influenced trends for decades, establishing himself as a world-renowned fashion icon,” stated Bernd Beetz, CEO of Coty Inc. “This is the ideal time to combine Roberto’s fashion power with Coty’s fragrance expertise. I’m proud to welcome Roberto as an esteemed member to the Coty family.”

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Cosmetics shoppers prefer brand names over natural ingredients

BY Antoinette Alexander

CHICAGO Opportunities exist for retailers and manufacturers when it comes to organic and natural products, as many cosmetic shoppers said they believe cosmetics are safe when they are free of “negative” ingredients; however, shoppers still want more education on organic and natural claims to justify paying the higher price, according to a recent study.

The U.S. study by market research firm Kairos Consumers found that consumers buying organic and natural cosmetics admitted they don’t know a great deal about what constitutes an organic or a natural product. When asked what makes a natural or organic product appealing to them, shoppers said safety and the absence of such “negative” ingredients as parabens, dyes and chemicals.

However, consumers do place a great importance on a brand’s reputation, which makes brand familiarity an important influencer. Consumers seem to know and understand conventional cosmetic claims or be more familiar with brand names, so they tend to favor buying them compared with products labeled “organic” or “natural,” according to the study, which included store audits and focus groups.

“Enormous opportunity exists for both manufacturers and retailers with established brands in organics or naturals, as consumers place great importance on familiar names. Smaller, lesser-known brands can also succeed by educating organic shoppers about the effectiveness of organic and natural ingredients, as many consumers in the study indicated a desire for this information,” stated Betsy Hoag, Kairos Consumers co-founder.

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