BEAUTY CARE

NPD Group study: Tween girls spending more bucks on beauty

BY DSN STAFF

PORT WASHINGTON, N.Y. —Attention beauty buyers: Tween girls could be your lottery ticket.

According to a recent report from market research firm The NPD Group, tween girls are using more beauty products, which means they represent an opportunity for the industry. But the really interesting point is that it doesn’t seem to have as much to do with a larger societal issue as you may think.

The “Insight into the Youth Beauty Market” report found that tween girls (ages 8 to 12 years) are reporting an increase in their usage of a few products, especially mascara and eyeliner. In fact, regular use of mascara nearly doubled in the past two years among tween girls (from 10% to 18%) as did eyeliner (from 9% to 15%). Overall, tweens reported using on average 4.5 different beauty products regularly, consistent with levels reported in 2007. The NPD Group defines “regular usage” as using at least once a month.

The evolution of beauty product use in tween girls appears to have less to do with diminished self-esteem or a larger societal issue, and more to do with moms and families, according to The NPD Group. The girls said they “look to their parents and siblings to see what they are using to help decide what to buy and use.”

Meanwhile, the report also found that among teens (ages 13 to 17 years), such skin care basics as facial cleansers and acne-spot treatment products, and such makeup products as mascara and lip gloss, significantly dropped in reported regular use versus 2007 levels. Among young women (ages 18 to 24 years), the pattern was similar. Foundation was the only product in the top 10 (ranked on overall reported usage) that showed no significant change in reported regular use for this age segment.

“As tween girls using beauty has now become a family affair, it is our opportunity and responsibility to ensure that these girls—and their parents—are educated on the role of beauty in the most responsible way,” stated Karen Grant, VP and global industry analyst for The NPD Group.

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Mack Elevation Forum examines how NOT to become SKU-rationalized

BY Rob Eder

SAN DIEGO It’s a new game. And the winners are the ones that follow the new rules of the game. That was how Swanson Group VP Dan Mack teed up the discussion here, Friday morning, at the Hilton Bayfront Hotel, for the latest edition of The Mack Elevation Forum.

The share group — which merged with the Swanson Group last November — organized and coordinated by Mack, brings together executives from noncompeting, generally smaller to mid-sized companies to examine critical business issues with the ultimate goal of enabling participants to align their sales and marketing strategies with the broader vision of the retailers they do business with. In all, executives from more than 20 different supplier companies were in attendance.

Among other things, the new rules, Mack explained, dictate that the pie of which suppliers fight to secure a share is smaller than it once was as retailers focus on growing their store brands; the new “value” consumer continues to grow in number — and value isn’t always defined by price; social media continues to level the playing field from a brand marketing standpoint, even as SKU rationalization does its best to shrink the playing field; and customer loyalty has reached an all-time low.

Special retailer guest, Bill Bergin, VP health and beauty for Rite Aid, provided attendees with an insider’s view of how suppliers can better engage Rite Aid, and shared details of key programs — such as the chain’s newly introduced Wellness+ customer loyalty card program, which the company began rolling out in May — that are priorities for Rite Aid.

Picking up on the theme of Drug Store News’ June 6 issue cover story, “7 Deadly Sins of SKU Rationalization,” Mack Elevation Forum attendees focused a good deal of the discussion around the topic of SKU rationalization — and, more importantly, how smaller vendors can keep out of the crosshairs.

To some extent, SKU rationalization has been a bit a of self-fulfilling prophesy, explained Vic Mazzacone, CEO of Drive Medical Design and Manufacturing, retail division. “The supplier community set the table for the radical SKU rationalization that is currently occurring,” he said, citing a lack of “real innovation. And overzealous marketers created a stream of new products that did not grow the segment and only traded sales. Too many brands are truly not differentiated, which makes them vulnerable.”

Dan Quail, VP sales for Similasan, noted that in one of his key business segments, the ear category, there historically have been six to seven other manufacturers competing within the section. “With some retailers, there are now only three manufacturers competing in the section,” Quail said. “It was a perfect case of companies not being differentiated and diluting the overall performance of the section.”

The bigger question, of course, is not so much what caused SKU rationalization, but what suppliers can do to keep from having their items eliminated. “Suppliers must understand emerging consumer trends and stay on the forefront of meeting evolving consumer needs,” said Mike Barna, VP sales for First Boston Pharma. “By staying out in front of the curve, you have the opportunity to create new products in growth segments where retailers are more willing to invest … and [you] are also more insulated against rationalization.”

Audie Rudiger, VP sales for Wahl, noted that the 80-year-old clipper company utilizes data from Zoomerang to identify consumer preferences, and uses that information to help support why its products must be a part of the planogram. Rudiger also recommended the online consumer survey service Questback.com for deeper qualitative and quantitative consumer feedback, and QuestionPro for more complex consumer research.

Another strategy for maintaining an item’s place on the shelf is to demonstrate that item’s contribution to the overall market basket, or the value of the trip the item generates, or that the value of that shopper is higher than the category norm, noted Tina Jackse, senior director of national accounts for Beiersdorf. “Try to establish if your brand — if not on the shelf — encouraged the consumer to leave the store.”

In the end, it is important for suppliers to leverage all of their assets to bring constant value back to the retailer. “Winning companies are bringing products to their retailer partners, but they also provide context on national best practices and are students of the important societal shifts,” Mack explained. “They understand that the game is about bringing ideas that help retailers build customer loyalty, drive trips and encourage in-store conversion. Companies offering these type of assets build strong brands and are more immune to being delisted.”

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New Burt’s Bees products to hit Target shelves

BY Antoinette Alexander

NEW YORK Burt’s Bees is launching several new products at Target stores in July.

There’s the new Burt’s Bees cranberry and pomegranate sugar scrub, which will retail for $12.99. This 100% natural body scrub exfoliates to reveal silky, ­soft skin. Natural sugar crystals polish away dead skin cells, while a blend of cranberry seed and pomegranate oil, infused with vitamins and essential fatty acids, nourishes skin. Shea butter, olive oil and soybean oil provide a triple moisturizer effect.

New to the lip care category is Burt’s Bees nourishing lip balm with mango butter ($3).The 100% natural lip balm is specially formulated with mango butter to soothe, moisturize and protect to reveal smooth, healthy lips. To also nourish lips is the new Burt’s Bees rejuvenating lip balm with acai berry ($3). This 100% natural lip balm is made with the superfruit acai berry to provide free radical-fighting antioxidants and vitamins A, C, D and E, as well as omega oils.

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