Innovative skin care enters color cosmetics
There’s been a shift in the way Western women approach makeup. They’ve come to understand that their makeup routine starts when they wash their face, and they want more from their cosmetic products than coverage and concealing.
Sarah Jindal, senior innovation and insights analyst for beauty and personal care at Mintel, explained that color cosmetics with skin care benefits have become the new gold standard. “There’s almost no such thing as makeup without skin care anymore. I think this is inspired by what we see with the Korean beauty philosophy of ‘skin first.’ There is such a focus on taking care of the skin and using makeup very sparingly to enhance, but not cover up.”
One only needs to look at hyaluronic acid, the skin-plumping wonder ingredient, to see the direction that makeup is taking. According to Mintel, global launches of foundation using hyaluronic acid have increased 86% from 2013 to 2016, and represent about 5% of global foundation launches in 2016.
Certain brands are leading the trend, paying particular attention to integrating anti-aging and moisturizing benefits, two of the most sought-after benefits among women regardless of age or demographic, according to Mintel’s July report on color cosmetics.
IT Cosmetics has built its entire brand on products that are equal parts skin care and cosmetics. The color ranges focus on flattering shades, and the boost to the skin is what really makes the products stand out. The lip products are infused with collagen and peptides to smooth lips, and such nourishing ingredients as shea butter and jojoba oil improve the texture and hydration of lips.
Standout products can be found at every price point in drug, mass market and prestige. CoverGirl’s Vitalist Healthy Elixir Foundation has been trending on social media, and contains a vitamin-infused formula with an antioxidant and vitamin complex. La Roche-Posay’s Anthelios 50 Mineral Tinted Primer has a powerful antioxidant complex and broad-spectrum UVA/UVB protection. L’Oréal also offers several hybrid products, including the anti-aging Visible Lift Blur Concealer.
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Brands look to reach caregivers
One of the biggest marketing opportunities for brands and retailers is reaching out to caregivers. Whether it is assisting in grooming rituals or housekeeping, finding products to help those who can’t do for themselves is a trend popping up on the radar.
It is estimated that almost 70 million people are now charged with taking care of someone, often a family member. An AARP Project Catalyst report from 2016 projected that 117 million Americans will need some sort of caregiving assistance by 2020. Compounding that is the fact that the population of Americans ages 65 years and older will nearly double by 2050, according to the U.S. Census Bureau.
The AARP report highlighted that 71% of caregivers are looking for innovations that support their caregiving activities.
In fact, Deborah Weinswig, managing director of the Fung Group, dubbed the “grandparent market” as a huge source of potential retail sales, with reports estimating that the number of grandparents will increase from 65 million in 2010 to 80 million in 2020.
Making products for and gearing marketing toward those consumers who need help for daily tasks will be increasingly important in the future. Fern Spadafino, executive director of Acorn Glen, an assisted living facility in Princeton, N.J., said finding grooming items to help her staff — and visiting family members — is on her front burner. “It helps maintain the dignity of our residents, especially shaving men, since that is such a ritual for them.”
Already, some companies are heeding the call. One of the most vivid examples is Gillette’s TREO shaver, designed for assisted shaving. The razor was revealed with an emotional short film, called “Handle with Care,” showcasing Kristian Rex and his father. Rex’s dad had a stroke and now needs assistance from him and others, a role reversal from his fond memories of his dad taking care of him.
According to Procter & Gamble, more than 75% of caregivers who shave loved ones and patients every three to five days potentially need a special shaver. Gillette’s TREO handles like a paintbrush, making it easier for users to give a careful shave. The blade requires less water, helpful because many elderly men are shaved away from the bathroom. Gillette is sending out TREO samples to caregivers and giving them to employees who care for others in order to get feedback prior to fully launching the product.
For those who still live on their own, several marketers are making items to make their lives easier. Swiffer, for example, targets many of its commercials to mature audiences or those with physical challenges. A prime example is a TV commercial starring Morty and Lee, who, after 44 years of marriage, ponder how much dirt they can “manufacture.” While asking for an easier way to clean, a Swiffer arrives that helps them spruce up under furniture and in high spots.
Oxo is another brand dedicated to making products specifically for an older audience. Retailers can seek inspiration from an online source called Caregiver Products that stocks everything from razor handle extensions and long-reach toenail scissors to automatic eye drop guides and long-handle combs.
Retailers are dipping their toes into the business, too. Pharmaca offers training on administering prescriptions, as well as on giving injections.
CVS proudly showed off its new look last April, firmly focused on self care. However, the store also is well positioned for consumers shopping for others. During the tour, George Coleman, VP of merchandising for CVS Pharmacy, displayed the wide array of testing kits the chain offers that caregivers can use in homes to supplement physician visits.
Sephora recently introduced classes for shoppers with cancer and those caring for a loved one on how to deal with hair and skin changes.
As Weinswig suggested, while many marketers chase millennials, there is plenty of opportunity around caring for the nation’s aging baby boomers.
I LOVE that Gillette commercial. Brings me to tears. So glad that brands are considering how to tweak their products to make them more friendly for family caregivers.
Vegan beauty goes mainstream
For all the clamor and controversy over being “cruelty-free,” little attention is paid to the animal derivatives used in the products themselves. There is a small but growing band of thought leaders — brands, bloggers and activists — who are determined to raise awareness and create a market for those who want to lessen the environmental impact of animal agriculture by offering vegan beauty products.
However, this message is not resonating with consumers yet. In a survey conducted by Statista, “vegan” ranked as one of the lowest concerns (6%) among features valued by consumers using organic personal care products. However, “environmentally friendly” and “made from natural sources” ranked very high. So, it seems that the issue lies in communicating actionable goals rather than abstract concepts.
According to Mintel’s 2017 report, “Farm to Face Makes a Good Ethical Message,” consumers want to connect with the source of their skin and beauty care. Whole Foods is one retailer on the ground floor of this trend. They employ strict standards for their beauty and skin care brands and they seek out brands with vegan offerings.
100% Pure, a pioneering brand for vegan beauty, is embracing the environmental aspects of veganism, but pushing for scientific breakthroughs. Founder and chief of creative Susie Wang told Drug Store News, “One of the crowning jewels in our natural repertoire is our fruit pigments. We dehydrate fresh fruits and vegetables and then extract their natural, intensely vibrant pigments.”
Balanced Guru, a certified-organic brand that is vegan except for organic beeswax, has created an alternative to silicone for their hair oils. Brand director Juan Pinto said, “With our oils, you get the immediate benefits of frizz control, softness and shine, while you also get long-term benefits of healthier hair.”
Skinfix has brought vegan branding to mass market retail with a dermatologist-approved line of skin care products that are all vegan, except for ethically sourced beeswax.
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