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Consumers still seek ‘magic in a bottle’

BY Antoinette Alexander

The anti-aging category has become quite saturated — not to mention confusing for many shoppers — but it is expected to enjoy growth going forward as the economy continues to improve and aging consumers continue to seek magic in a bottle.

"The economic recession didn’t hit this segment as hard as other beauty categories, but reduced consumer spending certainly had some impact," stated research firm Mintel in its February 2013 report on the U.S. anti-aging skin care market. "As the levels of disposable income slowly begin to rise, consumers may once again turn to more discretionary purchases such as anti-aging skin care. In addition, the aging population will continue to outpace total population growth, likely resulting in long-term growth potential for the category."

Mintel estimates that the category will see a modest turnaround beginning in 2013, which will grow by roughly 13% through 2017, reaching sales of more than $2.8 billion.

It likely comes as no surprise that Mintel’s research revealed that, among respondents, wrinkles and dry skin ranked as the leading skin concerns with regards to aging. Coming in next on the list were under-eye circles, age/sun spots and sagging skin. While dry skin can be an issue regardless of age, Mintel suggests that manufacturers consider highlighting how skin might need different types of hydration as it ages. They may also want to emphasize other issues that worsen with age, such as flaky skin, redness and uneven skin tone.

Already taking a page from this strategy are Vichy Laboratoires and Lumene.

Vichy Laboratoires, a French beauty brand, earlier this year expanded its Neovadiol range, which is for women 50 years and older, with the new Neovadiol Gf Lip & Eye Contours and Neovadiol Lumiere BB Cream.

According to Vichy, women over the age of 50 years represent 43% of the adult population in the United States and 75% of the nation’s wealth. However, skin care lines that target this consumer represent less than 10% of the overall skin care market.

In addition, Lumene, a European skin care and cosmetics brand from Finland, has developed Complete Rewind, a new anti-aging skin care line that leverages anti-glycation technology. The line is especially geared toward women ages 50 years and older. The line hit retail this summer.

Meanwhile, general anti-aging skin care products that do not target a specific age group continue to flood the market.

Among those is beauty brand Vbeaute, which recently announced its expansion into a handful of Duane Reade and Walgreens Look Boutiques this summer. The beauty brand is known for its anti-aging skin care and lip products formulated with Swiss Alpine rose botanical technology, a plant praised for its ability to thrive in even the harshest of climates.

In addition, Kathy Ireland, CEO and chief designer of Kathy Ireland Worldwide and women’s health advocate, is collaborating with board-certified surgeon Dr. David Scharp in bringing to the beauty market a stem cell-derived product brand called Stemáge.

Ireland and Sharp note that the unique aspect of the skin rejuvenation system is that it targets visible signs of aging through the proprietary use of human Mesenchymal stem cell derivatives, not stem cells, but rather active ingredients or derivatives of which stem cells are comprised.

Meanwhile, body anti-aging products are rising into the spotlight. According to IRI, sales of body anti-aging products rose nearly 12% for the 12 weeks ended June 16 at U.S. multi-outlet locations. The biggest gainer, according to the data, is private label, which enjoyed a 79% boost in sales.

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New, versatile skin treatments slick on sales

BY Antoinette Alexander

One of the hottest trends currently making waves in the beauty industry is oil. Whether it is rose hip seed oil, Argan oil, jojoba oil, olive oil or Kukui oil, incorporating oil into a skin care regimen is the buzz.

In fact, each month Sephora reveals its "Hot Now" — the most buzzed-about beauty products handpicked by its experts. Ole Henriksen Pure Truth Youth Activating Oil ($45) made the list for July. The potent anti-aging treatment features 100% rose hip seed oil and active vitamins A and C to brighten, repair and nourish skin.

A recent blog post, titled "You Look Like Sisters!" by The NPD Group, indicated that in prestige skin care alone sales of facial oils in 2012 grew by double digits over 2011, and more than doubled since 2008, according to The NPD Group/Beauty Trends data.

There’s no doubt that manufacturers are heeding the call. Lumene’s new anti-aging skin care line, known as Complete Rewind, includes the Intensive Recovery Beauty Oil. The oil is designed to help stimulate skin regeneration and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, moisture loss and other skin imperfections.

In addition, Crème of Nature recently introduced its 100% Pure Argan Oil for skin and hair.

Beauty brand derma e has developed its Skin, Hair and Nail Oil with Organic Argan and Jojoba Oils, plus Kukui Oil for an all-body treatment.

There’s also SILKtage Clear Glow from Emtage Beauty. This all-natural, multipurpose cleansing oil combines the powers of Argan, Camellia and Red Palm oil with the detoxifying properties of castor seed, broccoli seed and other botanical oils to dissolve makeup, dirt and impurities without leaving skin feeling tight or dry.

And let’s not forget about Bio-Oil, a popular skin care oil that hails from South Africa. It is formulated to help improve the appearance of scars, stretch marks and uneven skin tone. Bio-Oil has Pur-Cellin oil, which is inspired by the preen gland oil of ducks.

With the development of its new Age Perfect Glow Renewal Facial Oil, L’Oréal Paris is now bringing a concentrated facial oil to the mass market. According to L’Oréal Paris, it is a first-to-mass innovation that is designed to boost skin’s natural radiance and provides all-day hydration with a blend of eight essential oils.

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Shaving, skin care products for him gain buzz

BY Antoinette Alexander

Men’s grooming is one of the fastest-growing segments within beauty, as evidenced by rising sales figures and the recent push by retailers to bolster offerings just for him.

"Today, men’s grooming trends get almost as much Hollywood buzz as women’s hairstyles and red carpet fashion. Whether it is a perfectly manicured mustache, a smooth shave or just a daily grooming ritual, men are tending to themselves more and more," stated Debra Mednick, executive director of The NPD Group’s home business, when announcing that men’s grooming tools were the buzz for holiday 2012.

Today, however, men’s grooming isn’t just about razors and trimmers. A recently released trend report by JWTIntelligence found that 54% of American and British men surveyed said that skin care, such as eye cream and moisturizer, was acceptable. In addition, NPD found that at least 7-out-of-10 men are buying facial skin care products for themselves.

Euromonitor reported that the male grooming category increased its global revenues by an average of 6% per annum since 2006, to reach nearly $33 billion in 2011.

These are impressive numbers that are difficult to ignore, and retailers and manufacturers are taking note — in a big way.

Walgreens announced in late June that Boots’ No7 Men skin care products are now available chainwide at Walgreens and Duane Reade locations.

"No7 Men is an exciting opportunity to meet the expanding needs of our male customers. The daily regimen consists of cleansers, SPF moisturizers and anti-aging solutions. No7 Men is a wonderful addition to our male grooming product portfolio," stated Shannon Curtin, Walgreens’ divisional VP and GMM for beauty, personal care and seasonal.

Earlier this year, Amazon.com launched its new men’s grooming platform. The men’s grooming area features such products as skin care, body care, shave, hair care, oral care, and kits and gifts sets. The site also features a series of "how-to guides."

Meanwhile, manufacturers are stepping up their efforts. Beiersdorf’s Nivea Men recently developed the Silence the Irritation campaign to help educate men on the role that skin care plays in providing a comfortable shave.

Dove Men+Care, a Unilever brand, announced in early February the launch of a new skin care line for men — marking the brand’s first foray into facial care products. The new Dove Men+Care Face Range includes cleansing, shaving, post-shave and facial care products. Unilever also broadened its Axe brand with a new facial range for guys, including face wash, shave gel and post-shave hydrator products.

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