BEAUTY CARE

Color-correcting options provide lift

BY DSN STAFF

When Sephora introduced its compact contour app two years ago, it ignited the contouring trend. Now, Sephora has put its efforts behind teaching women how to “cancel out color concerns.”

(To view the full Category Review, click here.)

Dark circles? Redness? Dark spots? Dullness? The answer is just a click away on the beauty power-house’s website.

And IT Cosmetics’ Jamie Kern Lima built her line and a problem-solution premise after she started having skin issues, such as rosacea. Her line became an instant classic on QVC and at Ulta Beauty.

Becca Cosmetics is regaining its glow with its complexion products attracting loyal followers. One weapon in its arsenal is Aqua Luminous Perfecting Foundation, which features the merger of a light-reflecting particle and a pigment. An Aqua Luminous Perfecting Concealer is slated to launch this fall, and a new lip product is scheduled for early 2017.

Already, mass retailers are expecting major brands to enter the fray. Contour and sculpting kits brought in much-needed incremental sales this spring. The complexion correctors expected for early 2017 should do the same.

Already the mass market has enjoyed a lift from concealers, which help correct imperfections. Sales of concealers for the 52-week period ended May 15 across multi-outlets were up 12%, according to IRI. Big gains were posted by NYX (more than 200%), Maybelline (28%) and e.l.f. (27%). In individual items, Maybelline’s Face Studio Master Concealer stole the show, with sales soaring 200%. Maybelline Fit Me and Revlon PhotoReady also scored big.

Foundations had a halo impact on the move to correct the flaws consumers want to hide; for example, more and more women are letting their imperfections show through, but are covering up such severe issues as rosacea. Foundations, which had been flat over the past few years, jumped 3.5% for the tracked period, ignited by upturns in Maybelline’s Fit Me Matte and Poreless Foundation, and L’Oréal’s Infallible Pro Matte. Younger audiences previously shied away from foundations, but are now road-testing them as they seek the perfect selfie. Physicians Formula took advantage of that in celebration of National Selfie Day.

The other booming segment is primers and complexion preparation. Makeup primers and CC creams delivered $490 million to the beauty industry in 2015, according to NPD. Now there are primers for eyes, lips and face, which also are building baskets, buyers said.

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BEAUTY CARE

Strip away aging with Contours Rx strips

BY DSN STAFF

REDONDO BEACH, Calif. — What’s next for eyes? At least one company hopes it is a nonsurgical eyelift.

(To view the full Category Review, click here.)

Contours Rx is an instant, medical-grade, eyelid-correcting strip. When applied on the lid, it creates the appearance of a wider eye. Strips come in different sizes, depending on how much excess eye skin needs improvement — 3 mm for a “slight” lift to 8 mm for “maximum” lift. Strips also are dermatologist-tested, hypoallergenic and latex-free.

The Redondo Beach, Calif.-based company currently sells predominantly online and in spas, but if the concept takes off, it could usher in a whole new nonsurgical category for drug stores.

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Brow guru credited with sales spike

BY DSN STAFF

The spike in eyebrow makeup sales can be traced to a petite Romanian immigrant who became Beverly Hills’ most sought-after eyebrow guru. Although Anastasia Soare’s Anastasia Beverly Hills products aren’t available in mass, her magic with brows is credited with waking up the entire category.

(To view the full Category Review, click here.)

The quest for the perfectly manicured brow created by her golden ratio technique has filtered to mass, where IRI just reported a 47% jump in eyebrow makeup sales for the 52-week period ended May 15.

To be sure, Soare isn’t the first eyebrow expert to boost the business; Ramy Gafni did the same several years ago. But Soare has been the most prolific at using social media to spread her message. Her platform of choice is Instagram — the perfect showcase for brows. Soare’s daughter Claudia, president of Anastasia Beverly Hills, convinced her mother to try Instagram. “I realized after a few months that this is the best platform for my company,” Soare said. She’s surpassed 10 million Instagram followers thanks to her updates. She posts every two to three hours, necessitating up to four outfit changes per day.

She said it is worth the effort. “I used to go to Nordstrom and touch 100 people a day. I put a post, and I will get 100,000 comments,” she explained. It is no surprise to her that women are flocking to eyebrow products. “It is the one element in your face that will change everything. It’s one feature on your face that will bring balance and proportion if it is shaped correctly,” she explained.

It didn’t take long for mass market brands to jump onto the budding eyebrow craze. The growth numbers are impressive. Maybelline’s Eyestudio Brow Drama is posting anywhere from 85% to 160% gains, depending on the SKU. L’Oréal Brow Stylist Designer Eye Brow Makeup contributed 108% sales leaps. NYX, which had been out ahead of many mass brands, still managed to post strong sales in 2015 with an almost 30% jump. According to buyers, L.A. Colors has an emerging kit, offering a 13-piece brow collection for $5.99.

For retailers, brow artistry is just the beginning of a category experiencing robust sales. Overall eye, in fact, was up 12% in dollar volume. Eyeliner dollars are turning up as consumers use newer liners for a cat eye style. Mascaras, always a strong contender, churned out a 15% increase, fueled by new technologies and better brushes that complement newly arched brows. While brow kits are mostly on off-shelf promotional displays now, retailers plan to integrate them into planograms.

The wardrobing approach to eye wasn’t wasted on Revlon as it looks to ride a sales wave created by its Love Is On campaign. Rite Aid recently erected an endcap, called the Eye Zone, devoted to several eye products, including Revlon’s Color-stay Liquid Eye Pen and Photoready primer.

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